I just don't see the mechanical advantage of going past 800 for most people or even 780. I think we have already pushed this one too far. being in front of the steering axis in the old days especially with shorter bars and long stems is what gave us the feeling of wheel flop and the horrible jack-knife scenarios." A stem with a 32mm reach on a 780mm bar with normal sweep gets you pretty close to being in line with the steering axis of the front fork. It is not so much the short stem that is important but the resulting hand placement relative to the steering axis.
For most mountain bikes this means super short stems. You might be surprised to discover that your 50-millimeter stem is tinier than you believed it to be.įrom an interview with Sam Whittingham of Naked Bikes. Using the “string” measurement technique that I demonstrate here can help you determine whether your handlebar and stem combination is in the ballpark, or if that combination warrants experimenting with a different length stem. Using a stem that short would make it easy to arrive at a bar/stem combination that would put your grips behind the steering axis, and that's probably not good. So if you are running a 50, you’d need to add 5 millimeters to the effective stem lengths of each handlebar and conversely, subtract 10 millimeters if you were using a 35-millimeter stem. These numbers were derived using a 45-millimeter stem. If Fabian Barell’s observations are correct, and I believe they are, a handlebar-adjusted stem length around 20 millimeters would be as short as you’d want. The differences are not huge, but they can be significant. Where the bends occur in the span of the handlebar create different effective stem lengths. The takeaway here is that handlebars with similar back and up-sweep numbers often do not position the rider in the same place.
Oversize, 35mm clamp sections like this Easton Havoc's have pushed the sweep-back bends outwards.
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